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Questions? [Jan. 26th, 2009|02:24 am]


Hi, I'm new to the community. I have a few questions. I started climbing a few months ago and I've noticed changes in my overall tone and strength but I feel as if I've reached a plateau of sorts. I have a training board at my house which I train on after I climb; which is almost every other day. I feel like one problem is my weight. I'm 6'1" and weigh 237ish. I'm fairly stocky (I guess). This also brings up conflicts with people belaying and such and especially my potentials as a climber. These questions are random:

1. Is it normal for someone who climbs to weigh as much as I do?
2. What things can I do to reduce overall weight?
3. I recently blew through a pair of Evolv Pontas in like 2 or 3 months. I blew the toe out. Is this normal? How does Evolv's rubber stand up to 5.10s since I just bought a pair of Anasazi Verdes?
4. What things can I do to become an overall better climber?


[User Picture]From: gerralt
2009-01-26 08:27 am (UTC)
2. Go to a dietitian - it is what they are for :)
3. It is normal since you are new to the sport. This is due to a bad legs technique. You should put attention on how do you put your legs on holds. Try the "silent feet" exercise.
4. Take some private lessons, or buy a good book like "The self coached climber". Build a smart training schedule.

Good luck :)
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[User Picture]From: xfedbrokenglass
2009-01-26 04:14 pm (UTC)
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[User Picture]From: hobgob
2009-01-26 10:26 am (UTC)


1. No it is not. There are no fat climbers &even large climbers are muscular. 6'1" & over 220 lbs is HUGE for a climber. Closer to average is an anorectic climber. Strange thing is; on your fotos you do not look fat.. Maybe you are somekind of freak with skinny face &huge stomach.

2. There is no necesity to lower your weight, but if you want to become a better climber you have to convert possible fat to muscle. To accomplish both you need to torture your body to the !!X-treme!! | you could just start spending time outdoors.. Really; even though climbing is a excelent sport 1 may want to train lower extremitys by fe. by jumping on trampoline &cardiovascular with running |swimming, if 1 feels need to evolve as a climber.

(Now, if you were looking for pats on the back, instructions not to drink beer &to eat lots of fruits &veggies there are weight loss forums for that. Fatty! Now, please do not go apeshit on because in the U.S.A. 1 can get sued for stating the obivious. Here on the old continent we athletes are on the plateau from where we can mock the common folk. This tradition dates back to the days when there where still snow on the alps; those who could not move were in the valleys &they were stoned for food from the upper slopes. It was simple as that. Novadays a fat american can have a fast car &a automatic weapon... (The fatties do not have human rights here; even the no-sporting common folk can mock them &make them cry, though 1 must be beware of the punch of the fatty, since weight can be asset when giving a round-house to somebody &no Mc Donalds is not responsible, even if 1 got fat by eating their food +our sport industry does not have to put stamps "beware, climbing is dangerous" on quick-draws un-less they plan to sell them in the north-America.))

3. You could try to get your shoes re-rubbered, but you may have to accept to go through

4. http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/new/articles.shtml

Is your plateau on some climbing grade?

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[User Picture]From: xfedbrokenglass
2009-01-26 04:20 pm (UTC)

Re: Um;

I'm not really fat as I stated before. Bigger bones? Bigger muscles?

Apparently you hate America?

I thought about getting the soles resoled since they weren't necessarily cheap shoes but reconsidered when I heard good things about 5.10.

And the plateau I was speaking of is on a climbing grade.
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From: (Anonymous)
2009-01-26 09:44 pm (UTC)

Re: Um;

No I do not hate America, not really, sorry. :) I only think the U.S.A. is ridiculous, not the whole America :D. Hopefully Obama will govern you with less insanity them the great G. W. Bush (even though the man had a nice drive).

& what was the climbing grade your plateau was on?

If the shoes have hole through the canvas, it may be too late re-sole them.

You do not have muscular face of highly trained athletes on your in the pics on your journal assuming your are the dude with the stretched earlobes. If you take your training to "the next level", remember to be kind to your heart.
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[User Picture]From: xfedbrokenglass
2009-01-27 12:57 am (UTC)

Re: Um;

Obama will not. I may be the only one on this board who thinks so but it's whatever this isn't about politics.

I'm climbing 5.8's steady working on 9's but find 10's to be completely ridiculous.

Yeah that's me and I don't.
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[User Picture]From: tar_miriel
2009-01-26 11:26 am (UTC)
Normal doesn't matter so much, you're bigger than average but I've seen butterballs climb hard, yes dropping excess weight will help and make you less prone to injuries. Nancy Clark's books on nutrition for endurance athletes are a good start. As for shoes wearing out better footwork will help which in turn requires better flexibility. There are several great books on training, google will find them for you.
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[User Picture]From: xfedbrokenglass
2009-01-26 04:22 pm (UTC)
Thanks I'll look into that!
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[User Picture]From: normalcyispasse
2009-01-26 03:31 pm (UTC)
1. No. Most climbers are twiggy. That said, I'm 6' and about 240#. There are some heavier climbers out there, but we have to be cognizant about things like making sure our belayers are tied into something, and the fact that if we take a stout fall on lead we may as well retire the rope.

2. This is perhaps not the forum. Diet and exercise, to start with.

3. If you're looking for a very durable shoe, check out Evolv's Defy model.

4. Lots, certainly.
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[User Picture]From: xfedbrokenglass
2009-01-26 04:25 pm (UTC)
I tried the Defy's on and didn't feel like they were much more durable than my last shoe. I believe that the one I was climbing is a "souped" up model and I didn't feel like I got my money's worth out of it. Thanks for the help.
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[User Picture]From: aloha_moira
2009-01-26 04:46 pm (UTC)
1. I haven't seen that many large climbers, but I think part of that is due to people feeling embarrassed to even try (?) It's not impossible at all for heavier people to climb, but you may want to take it slow on the hardcore tiny holds to give your tendons more time to get used to the loads you're putting on them. (This is true for all climbers, really.)

2. Oh, you know, eat fruits and veggies and lean protein and whole grains, cut back on sweets and refined sugars and really fatty foods, get regular exercise. Climbing is great but I haven't found it to be a real weight loss tool; adding some cardio will probably help.

3. That seems really fast, but shoes do wear out - I went through a pair of Mad Rocks in about 9-10 months. As others have said, fast wear is probably due to imprecise footwork... if you're dragging your toes up the wall all the time the rubber scrapes off quickly.

4. Climb more! Climb a lot at a relatively easy-for-you level to build up general strength and endurance, and focus on footwork especially. Tougher climbs are good for working on arm/hand strength specifically. And make sure you vary the terrain as much as you can - whenever I find myself staying on slabby, technical stuff because I have a hard time with difficult overhangs, I make myself climb overhangs. ;)
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From: blueeyes2
2009-01-26 05:39 pm (UTC)
1. It's perfectly OK for people who weigh 237ish to climb. While it's on the heavy side I know lots of guys who due to their muscles are heavier than avg. There is NO problem with it - Climb On!
2. Reducing weight depends on a whole host of things - appropriate exercise and good nutrition may be best.
3. no comment
4. Climb more and with climbers who are better than you
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[User Picture]From: ramaldon
2009-01-27 12:37 am (UTC)
Mostly, I would reiterate what everyone else is saying. There are some heavier climbers out there. Just be careful with your tendons. If you over work those you are pretty much going to hate your body for the rest of forever. If the training board you are talking about is one of those boards that is a wooden board with tiny wooden ledges I'd be super careful with that. It is super easy to hurt your fingers that way.
I'm voting lipo for the weight issue. It would be super fast! :-D
If you blew the toe out, it will be more expensive to get the shoes re-soled, but it often can be done. They won't feel the same though. Also, if you blew out the top of your toe try to make sure you aren't dragging your foot upwards along the wall. It took me a while to notice I was doing that myself. My first new pair of shoes lasted about a year despite that bad habit though. I really love the Mythos. They're super comfortable, and at least durable for me.
As far as becoming an overall better climber, footwork, balance (and the ability to move your body weight intentionally), and flexibility are amazing things. Footwork is probably the easiest of those things to work on. It just involves being mindful of how you are using your legs and trying to use your arms as little as possible.
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From: just_sullen
2009-03-23 07:28 am (UTC)
This is quite a delayed response, but here goes, anyhow:

Two of my climbing friends are much taller and more solid than the average climber. One of them in particular is about 6'2" and 240 lbs. i'm almost a foot shorter, and more than a hundred pounds smaller, but we have a lot of fun belaying for one another at the gym.

Sure, there are certain body-types that work best for certain activities. But that shouldn't stop us from doing the things we enjoy.

As far as losing weight, just make sure you eat healthy foods, and get some physical exercise every day. Make small steps to change your lifestyle, and commit to each new step before you continue to the next. check out some communities like sparkpeople.com for great support and ideas.
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From: xsports1
2009-03-30 04:31 pm (UTC)

my idea,,,Little late

Well Climb More,, Thats how you will get better..
As for your size,,,,Draw back is you will get bigger first,,Musles will get bigger due to pulling more size.. But then you will get toned and more skilled. Toneing will reduce wieght, and tech Skill will= less force you need to use....And in time you will tone up, get lighter and better... My idea Could be wrong,,
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